Sunday, December 19, 2010

Road to Ooty - Story of 36 hair pin bends

"Hey. There are two ways to go to Ooty. One is the shortest and just 36kms from the deviation near masinagudi safari cross. But beware that shortest route is very steep and has lots of hair pin curves. Your car being santro should be able to make it easily, but lesser cars do not. Also traffic is less there since buses dont ply on that route because of steepness. Anyway happy journey". These were the words of advice given to me by my friend in office. Now those exact words were ringing in my mind when we had just started our journey towards Ooty from Mysore. Unaware of this risky road ahead, my wife beside me was pretty excited about the whole journey. I never dared to spoil her enthusiasm too (For now). Somehow I had got the feeling that I will be directed towards that short route itself instead of a nice long relaxing alternate route. My adventurous mind was wanting me to take that hair pin road but my heart was thinking otherwise. Finally it came down to that safari cross where we saw a sign-board showing Ooty direction and mentioning it as 36kms away. I felt somehow that this was leading to that risky road and soon after my fear was coming true. The road was clear with no heavy traffic, infact very rarely we could see another four wheeler passing by. I had seen lot of such mountain roads before so I thought this would just be another of such types. Being confident of making to the top of hill, I went forward.


Couple of minutes later I could see some sign-boards of caution like "drive slowly", "accident zone", "Hair pin bends ahead" and "Steep curve ahead". Then finally a big board read "36/36 hair pin bends". Looking at the board, I could make out that there would be 36 hair pin bends ahead and Ooty was around 18 kms away now. First couple of hair pin bends were just like any other normal ones which I had seen lots but then when the third one was passed, I could feel some fear within myself. I thought "the coming hour does not seem to be an easy one". Eventough I was beginning to feel nervous now, I could not show that nervousness to my wife who had probably realized by now about what lies ahead. She was sitting pretty stiff now. The small chats here and there had come to a complete standstill now. With the cool silent environment outside, there was a nervous silence inside our car now.


By this time we had crossed another couple of hair pin bends and the board now read 31/36. My car engine was roaring now toggling between first and second gears, but I could not be any nice to my car because of the situation we were in now. The left hair pin bends were really scary only because they were so steep that you could not see if any vehicle is coming from the other side. But the vehicles on the descent were really helpful. When they notice upcoming cars, they used to stop until we completely cross the hair pin bend. Guess usually thats one of the nice highway disciplines among cars when driving on such difficult roads which is seldom missing in our cities.


When the board read 18/36, there was a bit of relief since we had passed halfway now. I could see my wife still stiff beside. To release some nervousness, I casually asked her to take some photographs of the scenery outside. To this she just shouted back saying, "Just look ahead and drive, dont talk please". The situation was just worse than I had expected. The roads seemed good now and my confidence of making it to the top was back eventough my car was still roaring admist the foggy mountain. In my second attempt to cool her down, I asked her, "You have been on scarier rides in wonderla and other amusement parks on which I dont even dare to go, why are you feeling so scared now?". For this she just plainly and truly replied that "Are baaba, those rides get over in couple of minutes and we still have 15 more mins on this scary ride". I did not know whether to laugh or get worried for this reply, but I realized one thing that my wife would cool down only once we pass all the hair pin bends. So without wasting any further time, I concentrated on the road ahead and on the mission to reach the top.


Finally the boards started to look less dreadful when the reading came down to single digits Then once we saw the board which read 1/36, we both gave sign of relief and looked at each other and immediately I told her that lets not come on this way during our return journey. While telling this thing to my wife, Internally my heart and mind were both saying "Not only on return journey, never again we will come on this risky road again". Surely this was the most difficult pass for me with my aging car and nervous wife in my whole driving career until now. I have been to lot of such hills and mountains before but never had I been so scared with the doubt of making it to the top of the hill. Anyway, all well that ends well. On return journey we just came on the other alternative route and the road was not a little bit scary but took an additional hour to reach our destination than that risky road. At that time I thought we could just have gone on that risky road to save some time, but then...

29 comments:

Unknown said...

All I can say is that it is time you sold that match box...

Chetz said...

Hope u guys have recovered from the fear of that dreadful drive... LOL

Sachin said...

@Bharath - Dont call it matchbox, its still as good as Sachin (Tendulkar). The older it gets the better it performs... ;)

@Chetz - Yep, totally recovered when we reached top of hill itself. Now we see back and enjoy that fear we had at that time... ;)

Srinivasa S said...

So, how did you get back? Via The Gudalur NH? Last year we have come from ooty to masinagudi via the "dreadful" route - did not look so dreadful from inside of a scorpio :D :P

Sachin said...

@Srinivas - Well scorpio explains why it was not so dreadful, but out poor old Santro struggled a lot to climb and probably getting down is easier on that route. We came back using that Bus route (long route)...

Big Boss said...

Downhill descent is even riskier. The thing is many don't know the tricks of downhill driving & don't mind to follow the instructions on the placards either. You can see many cars parked here & there on the road due to heating up of breaks. Drive in 1st or 2nd & minimally use the breaks during the descent in such steep cliffs!

I treaded this path with no breakdowns even with my Alto. Thanks to the tips of my friend's Honda CRV chauffeur in the last trip.

Sachin said...

@BigBoss - hey, thanks for the valuable tips... Very true, that downhill descent is trickier but seldom people understand its risky nature...

Savio said...

Dear Sir, I planned my first long road trip this Oct 29th-Nov 09th Mumbai-Hubli-Hampi-Banglore-Mysore-Coorg-Ooty-Coonor-Mumbai...and unfortunately I came across your article on the 36hair pin bends....I have been regular on Mumbai-Lonvala-Pune , Mumbai-Goa..meaning I have a so..so..hill/ghat driving experience..your article put me off hence was least interested to that the bends..U wont believe this I took the bends to Ooty whist I had a high fever 103F' and took the same route down...literally I was shocked as the driving requires simple judgement and common sense thereby your revive was very much in contrast to what was in actual..I decided the first thing to do was to write to you on your comment..I wud request readers the 36bends is a cake walk all you need is to follow the instructions put along the road side...what u need to follow is...
1-drive in 1st-2nd gear (upwards)
and 2nd gear down hill
2-maintain your lane
3-go slow
4-do not over take
5-NO NEED TO PANIC

Sachin said...

@Savio - Thanks for your comments. I have published your comment since readers can decide on their own. Also My article is not about review of route to Ooty, its about my experience with my ageing car. Even I had a fever of 100 during this drive. Finally if you compare the normal bus route, you would definitely not choose this 36 hair pin route in first place. I am sorry if it put you off. It was not intended in my blog.

Möbius said...

I have also heard some 'not so pleasant' experience about the infamous hair pin bends en route to Ooty. I am planning a trip there in a couple of months. What is this 'alternative' and 'simpler' route that you mention? Any pointers about that would be very helpful!

Sachin said...

@Mobius - The normal bus route is a very simple route wihout much fuss. Only thing it takes you one additional hour to reach your destination. The 36 pin road is also not as scary as it is meant to be, but you need to be a little more cautious than the other bus route. Its for you to decide, short or long route.

Anonymous said...

We did that 36 hairpins on bike(honda unicorn, yamaha szr and yamaha 135), to be true it was a real experience and a test for ones riding skills. Make sure to stop at intervals so that the engine do not overheat. The view from the hills is awesome.

Unknown said...

Hi Sachin,

Enjoyed the article.

Even i was in a similar state of mind when we traveled to Ooty last week (31st Jan 2013)in my Santro Xing.Was totally confused as to which route i am supposed to take even before the start of our trip.It was there till we reached the Mudumalai junction and finally i took a brave decision in choosing the ghat route.but surprisingly i cruised thru the ghat effortlessly and was able to manage in the 2nd gear (never shifted to the 1st gear) one more reason could be less load inside the car as only 3 of us were there.



Brinell Lewis said...

hey It happened teh first tiem to me when I had driven to Matheran from Mumbai but since then hair pin bends have been fun. Can anyone please let em know if these bends are similar to ones at Agumbe ghat or are tehy steeper?

Sirish said...

I did 36 hair pin bends yesterday in my Maruti SX4. Unfortunately, I was behind a slow moving government mini bus and sometime it stopped during the climb and it became very difficult for me to continue in 2nd gear. Most of the time , I was in first gear.
Its difficult climb also, I saw few people stopping buy to put rest to their car's overheated engine.
One more thing, you are totally occupied by hairpin bends and thus miss scenic beauty around.

Make sure that you have good vehicle with very good pick up in first and second gear and also get some experience of ghat driving before attempting it.

I came down via Gudalur route and I really enjoyed it. Its less stressful and you enjoy the scenes around.

Unknown said...

Really its an awesome journey that is my first drive on mountain curves that too this Ooty 36 hair pin bends...

Anonymous said...

Hey Sachin,even though after 5 years,we had a similar experience or even worse.we should have seen this blog before.This happened yesterday - April 5 2015.While going to Ooty we went through the other way (Gudallur).
That time some people told us you could have gone through the other way,that is the shortest.Then we decided we while returning we will go through hair pin bends.Then on April 5 our return journey started,before we enter we asked one guy the way to Ooty .He showed us the road through Gudallur.Then we told asked him the other way-way through Masinagudi.
Then he showed us the way and warned us go in first gear or second gear.That time ,we felt panic.But thought we will be able handle.Then we were going through that way.We crossed some hair pin bends.
We saw 2 or 3 cars stopped in between.Then I told see how pathetic if we get some car problem in between.Then we continued our journey.We got some confidence.We crossed 23/36 hair pin bends.
We were going very slowly.Then at 27-28/36 bend,I asked my hubby some thing.Then he said some thing angrily -don't ask any thing now.He told "I am tired of pressing break".As I had learned driving long back,I was imagining some thing in my mind how clutch and break works.Suddenly at the 30/36 th bend while climbing down,speed increased.I told him "reduce the speed,reduce the speed".Speed was not reduced and it increased and .... the car hit on the safeguard/fence and the rock wall.(OMG).My husband was speechless.
I was totally blank unknowing what had happened.I told him "It is ok.no problem".Many people came rushing towards us.Every one was seeing us whether we got hurt.Actually we were not hurt.We were perfectly fine.
Side of the car was damaged.One guy tried to take the car back.But it was not moving.Then came to know that disc of the left tyre was damaged .Initially we though the tyre was punctured.Those who were standing there told us change the tyre and you can leave and they left.One guy parked his car some where near by and he came with his wife.
Thank God they gave really mental support.That guy himself took out the steppini and he alone tried to change the tyre.
While that guy was trying to change the tyre,he came to know there is some bend and we can not change the tyre.Some mechanic should come change it.Then there was a number on the tree "free ambulance no.".Then he called that number informed this.He told may be a towing van will come and the car will taken down and you both can go in that.Then they left after some time.
Immediately after our car was hit there was one car which was climbing up ,they were unable to drive,the tyre was making some sound.Even, they went up and stopped for some time.The next moment ,one more car stopped seeing the smoke come from the tyres.So we were accompanied by some people for some time.Then one mechanic came and told,the lower arm is bend and not sure whether anything happened to the shaft of our car.He told we need to replace it and then only we can go.We may have to go back to Ooty or go to Masinagudi.
But it seems those spare parts are not there in masinagudi.Then finally called maruthi mobile service and confirmed they will bring the spare parts.Then we waited for long time.We were not sure whether we can go to bangalore the same day or whether we have to go back to Ooty if some spare parts are missing.The long wait continues.Finally we were alone calling the mechanic.Then came the maruthi mobile service van around 4:30.They tried hard to fix,since the bend was hard.Luckily they have brought the lower arm and the shaft.When they checked,came to know that the shaft is broken.
Then they fixed every thing and total cost was 9000.It was 6:00 pm when we left after long wait of 5 hrs.
If those safe guards were not there,I would not have been here to write this.Thank God for protecting us .We believe there were the prayers of those loved us.This is an unforgettable experience for us..We reached bangalore around April 6 2:00 AM.

Anonymous said...

What Bigboss said is exactly true.We came to that yesterday .

Anonymous said...

Are these hair pin bends similar to the one in yercaud??

Sachin said...

Yercaud ones were easy I suppose. But again, its all with the individual perspective...

kathiresan said...

Such a fantastic curves to ride on, and it really tested my skills as enough.Had traveled in pulsar 150 where we had no choice to stop or neutral the bike for a distance. Waiting to give a try once ...

Suhas Dwarakanath said...

Bikes cannot be compared to cars in any way - dear kathiresan. I have done Khardula in both

Unknown said...

Last week I traveled to Ooty via same infamous but exciting route.Though it is risky but I followed some simple rules like-
1. While going up use 1st and 2nd Gear.
2. While climbing down use 2nd gear which limits the speed of car to max 40 KMPH and does not load the brake and disc.
3. Do not overtake.
4. Reduce ur speed to barest minimum at bends.
5. Be confident. It is overall a new experience.

Such rules helped me cross is comfortably.

Nurul Islam said...

Here is my story....

Even I thought to take 36 hairpin bend road. Its very scenic. You can enjoy the view. We started from 36/36 and reached 8/36. Most of the bends I was managing with gear 1 and 2. After reaching 7th I stopped to take some photo of terrace gardening.. Which was beautiful. After that when we tried to start car was not getting started. Every passer by was looking at us and asking what happened.in the mean while two local men stopped their vehicle and came to us. When I told car is not starting they started checking car fuse and other stuffs. However the could not fix and the left.. Then some local 5 guys came in another car and stopped and asked me what happened and all. We got scared remembering all Hollywood movies where unusual thing happens on hills and empty highways. When I told them i called help already and my help team is coming then they left. It was just me and my wife alone in my car. I called maruti roadside assistance searching the number from google. Also I called my hotel owner in OOTY Where I booked room requesting any possible help. I waited for an hour and maruti people came. They found it was car battery issue. Since the battery was running with low distilled water and I was driving through ghat section. Due to engine overheat surrounding area also heated up. Body of battery also heated and battery became totally dry. So it was not starting. Maruti people put some distilled water on it and with the help of their own battery they started my car and kept for sometime. My car battery got recharged. Ok.. Here is the twist now.. At the Same location two other car also got stopped. After struggling and pushing other cars were managed to start. This location is in between 7th and 8th hairpin bend. That place has sign board also as accident prone area. It means there is some serious problem with that location. It does not matter whichever car you have u might get into trouble in that location. In one hour I have seen 3 car having trouble at the same location. It just can not be coincidence. This is related to something unseen spiritual stuff I believe. Please think twice thrice to take this road towards ooty. While coming down I took Gudalur road and came. I might sound unrealistic to you but this is fact.

Jeyaseelan said...

I too crossed that tragedy. It totaly lost the confident. My expert driver only drove my 5 years old fiesta car b/w 7 to 8pm. I cancelled my further journey to my home and stayed ooty itself. The 36 sign boards brought my heart beets to peaked.

Shiju said...

I have used break to stop d vehicle or reduce the speed menu times ......



Finally I lost d break. ....


Oh god ..

U saved me

Unknown said...

Thank you for providing such useful information. I am really very scared of steep and hilly roads. Might not take the hairpin bends ;) But would surely like to visit the place.

Ooty Cab Booking Online

deepak said...

I went to Ooty on 14th Jul using 36 Hairpin road and trust me it was a cakewalk as long as you follow simple driving rules. Just drive in your lane and keep your vehicle in 1st or 2nd gear. My car stopped at a curve due to my mistake as I tried to change gear while driving on a bend going upwards. Overall it was a good driving experience. Also, while coming back I took the same route and it was a fun driving while going down as well. It was a cakewalk. Just follow simple driving rules and be in your lane. Also, stop on bend if you see car coming upwards.
And above all BE CONFIDENT.

P.S. It was my first driving experience on hills.

Unknown said...

guys please not over take in this road it is highly risk and you should drive your car in first gear or second gear please don't use break frequently try to control your speed by using gear and clutch if u have full loads in your car means please don't use this road this month only i went to masinagudi in this route five members in my car RPM is increasing with out my knowledge due to loads in my car.if u use beak frequently means your drum will get heat and your beak will fail so follow this steps to reach your designation safely...